Page 1 of 1

Sewer Hookup Setups and Issues

PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 9:34 pm
by JudyJB
I thought I would start a new thread because it is obvious that we all have such different setups and difficulties. This might be something someone buying their first RV might want to consider. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ADD PHOTOS OF YOUR SETUPS AND EXPLAIN WHAT ABOUT THEM IS POORLY DESIGNED.

Anyway, here are some photos of my setup. I have a utility storage area that I consider my "dirty" area. It contains my electric connection with permanently attached cord and the sewer hookup with dump handles. The storage bin to the right is where I store clean thngs like hoses, connections, and extra electric extension cords.
Image

This shows a closeup of the utility area with my sewer hose hooked up and going through the bottom of the storage area. Notice that I sometimes use the water filter wrench, but the problem is it has to be slid on before you attach the hose. Also notice the sewer cap to the right and the round cover that goes over the open hole in the bottom of the bin when I am driving. Also, there is a small hole for the electric cord to go through, but I seldom stuff it through because it is too small. If I did that, I could close and lock this area when hooked up, and possibly prevent raccoons from trying to set up housekeeping, but of course, I am too lazy. (If I leave the door open, animals can crawl into the next-door storage area through the open area on the upper right of the back wall and get into the pass-through, as one once did.) If the sewer hose hookup were installed closer to the door rather than at the very back of the area, I would not have to stick my head in, but of course Fleetwood never considered people with short arms who had trouble bending over or kneeling.
Image

This shows the utility area with my rinsed out sewer hose just thrown in and the cap on the hookup opening. It is certainly nice not to have to stuff the sewer hose in a bumper or a plastic bin.
Image

This is the next-door storage bin with hoses in a plastic bin and cleaning things on the left. This is a pass-through to the other side of the RV, where I have a similar-sized storage area where I keep tools and extra parts, along with a plastic tub full of outdoor cooking things.
Image

Re: Sewer Hookup Setups and Issues

PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 5:44 pm
by OTW
Judy -- I posted this on the "weak hand strength" thread but think you missed it since it was after the topic had veered. Repeating here - just a thought -- what about attaching a short length of sewer hose to the current RV's sewer connector just as you have it now (having threaded it up through the hole under the cabinet). That short hose would then hang outside the hole by a few inches permanently. You'd add another connector to the outside's end of the short hose, to which you'd attach and remove your normal longer dump hose that goes to the sewer and be able to cap it (just as you currently cap your RV's built in sewer connector). In other words, just an extension hose that just stays on, solely so that you don't have to always thread a hose up through the hole from the outside with one hand and have to grab it with the cabinet door open with the other hand every time you want to dump. If the hole is big enough that you can feed the hose up through it, then it seems a very good chance that a hard plastic extension adapter would be able to go through that same hole which would be even better and easier (the properly threaded ends are already on it). Either way, that extension (whether a piece of hose or adapter) would live permanently on your sewer valve, going from the RV's built in connection point down through the hole. You'd still have to open the cabinet to pull the levers, but you'd be attaching your sewer hose to the extended piece from the outside. Here's the one I'm going to get in the spring to permanently attach to my dump valve to bring it closer to the edge of my trailer so I don't have to reach so far underneath the rig and struggle with getting those bayonet fittings on and off (full arm length recessed plus down low under my rig). It comes in lengths from 3.5 inches to 9 inches long and if your sewer hose's bayonette fitting will go through that hole then I'd think this could. And it would be a lot more sturdy against bangs from other things in that cabinet than a flex hose would be. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024E6W9S/_e ... F3LZP6RRQ0

As for funky hose being stuffed into the cabinet instead of being contained in a plastic bin, I agree, that's messy and it doesn't let you store anything else in there that isn't funky-proof. They make soft plastic boxes that could contain the hose and be squished in. Here's one made by Rubbermaid - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078YVKSW/re ... 5968894309 I have some made by Ziplock that are a little different design. These are quite big and heavy duty vinyl with zippers for closure. They can be washed, squished, bent, etc. as well as having handles. (I'd actually forgotten about these, might end up switching from my hard plastic box to one of these because you can see through them and they only take up as much room as needed due to squishability.

Re: Sewer Hookup Setups and Issues

PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 1:11 am
by JudyJB
Thanks for the suggestions. My concerns about an extension going below is that it would be hard to reach way down there.

And I don't mind having a dirty storage area because I have a lot more storage in other places that I do not use. I really do like that plastic storage thing, however. I could use a couple of those for storing extra clothing.

Re: Sewer Hookup Setups and Issues

PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 2:03 am
by OTW
Ah, okay I thought the big issue was having to feed the hose in through the hole from the underside with one arm while hanging onto it from inside the cabinet with the other. Like a big bear hug of the underside edge of your rig while bending sideways).

On the plastic flexible "boxes" - be aware there's about an inch of mesh along the upper edge of the sides which I guess is to allow contents to breathe - at least on the Ziplock brand ones, I don't know about the Rubbermaid ones. Or it's to let air out while squishing the contents maybe. It probably wouldn't matter in most applications but I had originally bought mine for sheep fleeces and those little teensy holes in the mesh could make it not moth-proof. It could easily be taped over actually. May not matter either way, but I'm just mentioning it's there.

Re: Sewer Hookup Setups and Issues

PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 2:20 am
by BarbaraRose
Judy, how about using that straight extension down thru the hole and then an elbow piece that comes out to the edge of your rig? That way you don't have to reach underneath to hook up your hose.

Re: Sewer Hookup Setups and Issues

PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 12:56 pm
by JudyJB
That might help, Barbie. Between that and my water pump which requires a skinny guy to practically crawl into one of my bins because they put it in a pass-through, I'll bet we could all get together and redesign these things for the manufacturers!

Re: Sewer Hookup Setups and Issues

PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:19 am
by OTW
BarbaraRose wrote:Judy, how about using that straight extension down thru the hole and then an elbow piece that comes out to the edge of your rig? That way you don't have to reach underneath to hook up your hose.


Great addition! I winterized my rig yesterday (first time) and came to appreciate the placement of things we have to get to if not 6 ft. tall, very thin, with long arms and wide-span hands with super finger strength. Oh, add "ability to fold up into a pretzel while carrying a tune."